Free picnic table woodworking plans – Classic Style
Outdoor Plans November 11, 2006 WoodworkCity 17
This is one of the most useful projects that anyone could build. A picnic table is a simple plan and can be used virtually anywhere. The material is inexpensive and it will be useful for you and your family for years to come.
This picnic table is made from 2×6 and 2×4 lumber that can be found at any home center.
- Lumber List
- (6) 2″ x 6″ – 12′ (seat, the top and the legs)
- (1) 2″ x 6″ – 10′ (seat supports)
- (2) 2″ x 4″ – 10′ (table supports and braces)
- Hardware List
- (12) 3/8″ x 3 1/2″ Galvanized carriage bolts (or stainless steel)
- (12) 3/8″ flat washers (Galvanized or stainless steel)
- 1 Box 2 1/2″ Galvanized nails
The plan below is rather self explanatory. If you are having any trouble, please leave a comment and I will be happy to help.
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JeremyMay 6, 2017 #1 Author
I may be overlooking but is the final build only 30″ tall from bottom to top?
WoodworkCityMay 7, 2017 #2 Author
That is correct. I am often surprised at what some “standard” heights are. It seems low, but when you are sitting on a finished product, it makes sense.
Having said that, standards are changing. Look at vanity heights or toilet heights in the past 15 years. A 25 year old bathroom seems like it was built for a “kid”. Perhaps you can modify your build slightly to increase heights. You might want to keep your seat height to table top the same since that difference can be something that bumps people. Increasing your overall project height is certainly easy to “correct” if you change your mind.
Hope the project works out.
Randy HooperDecember 7, 2015 #3 Author
Is it possible to make this table 8 feet long? and what materials and dimensions would change?
WoodworkCityDecember 7, 2015 #4 Author
It is certainly possible to make this an 8′ table. There are few changes to the plan. The “table leg units” do not change. The only changes are on your long pieces and on your diagonal braces. The long pieces are simply 8′ rather than 6′. The diagonal braces are a little trickier. Because of the added length, the length of that brace changes and also changes the angle. HOWEVER, the braces and the angle could remain the same by simply using the current layout and then altering the center block to include a “block” that acts as a cleat at the tip of the diagonal brace where it meets the underside of the table and extends it to the center block. It would almost end up looking like a “plus” sign from the under side.
An alternative to extending the center block would be to add an additional block. and move the center block over to meet the ends of each diagonal brace.
Contact us if that doesn’t make sense.
Joe DeVaneyMay 26, 2015 #5 Author
Built this in a few hours on memorial day and was eating super at it in the evening. Turned out great. Made a few adjustments to measurements in a couple places just to make things fit a little better. I actually was able to get all the 2×4 pieces cut from 1 12ft stick. The neighbors have seen it and now they all want me to build them one. Great design. Exactly what I was looking for.
WoodworkCityMay 26, 2015 #6 Author
Happy that this picnic table worked out for you. This one is a classic and is the perfect item for any woodworker who wants everyone who sees it to ask for one of their own!
Thanks for visiting. Please let us know if you have anything specific that you are looking for and we’ll locate and post.
Luke KeenanApril 28, 2015 #7 Author
Was wondering if I could get a shopping list for this table that is modified a little. I want to use 2×12’s for the top and seats. I think this should work for these plans. Any advice is welcomed. Thanks.
WoodworkCityApril 29, 2015 #8 Author
There are a couple of minor issues when doing this. Part of the dimension of the table top comes from the spacing between the slats (the 2×6’s). When you use 2×12’s for the top, you eliminate those spaces and end up with a table top that either has a large gap, or one that is too narrow for your framework.
The 2×12’s for the seats are not going to face the same issue since they can just line up with the end of your horizontal support. In fact, the extra 1/4″ – 1/2″ clearance might be a slightly better feel.
If you want to use 2×12’s for your table top, you will still need at least 1 2×6. Since the top is 5 @ 2×6, this would be converted to 2 @ 2×12 plus 1 @ 2×6. Again, keep in mind that you are going to lose the 1/2″ to 1″ by eliminating 2 spaces.
Your material list could be as follows:
(2) 2″ x 12″ – 12′ (seats, outside pieces of the top)
(2) 2″ x 6″ – 12′ (seat, the center slat for the top and the legs)
(1) 2″ x 6″ – 10′ (seat supports)
(2) 2″ x 4″ – 10′ (table supports and braces)
Luis GarzaJuly 14, 2014 #9 Author
I just did one myself and everything came easy and perfect Thanks!!
AlexMay 16, 2014 #10 Author
Just did this table and it came out pretty nice for our small family! Thanks!
JoeJune 3, 2013 #11 Author
If you are using 5 (2″ X 6″) for the top, how is the width of the top on your drawing only 28 3/4″? Shouldn’t it be over 30″?
I like your drawing, I’m not building it but modeling it in 3D.
adminJune 4, 2013 #12 Author
A 2″ x 6″ board is not a true dimension (funny, I know). Here is a link to a dimensional lumber size chart.
I hope this helps.
Tim LewisMay 2, 2011 #13 Author
Thanks, I should have noticed that!
adminMay 3, 2011 #14 Author
Not a problem Tim. Happy to help.
Tim LewisMay 2, 2011 #15 Author
Hello, the 2×4 cross brace at the top of the legs, is the 45* cut from the top of the board or do you drop down 2″ then cut 45*?
adminMay 2, 2011 #16 Author
It appears that the 45 degree cut is dropped down so that the lower edge meets.
The 45 appears to start at about 1 1/2″ down (based on the 2×4 center brace . Hope that helps a bit.