These plans came about when I spotted an item in a friend’s Pinterest “projects to build” board. When my friend/neighbor posted these, I felt that it would be nice to work on this plan and possibly build this item with her. The item was originally sold by Plow and Hearth and doesn’t appear to be available any longer.
With that in mind, I kept the plan relatively simple in terms of the construction and the cuts needed. I created a plan using a program called Sketchup. Click for the full Sketchup plan.
The instructions are listed below along with the material list and cutting list. The instructions are a bit limited since we haven’t built our own version yet. Once we complete our own version of this Plow and Hearth cabinet, we will add images, video, and further detail to the instructions.
4 @ 1″ x 6 x 8′
1 @ 1″ x 2 x 8′
2 @ Chain for sides
2 @ Side latches
1 @ Piano style hinge (stainless or weather resistant)
A: 2 @ 1 x 6 x 36 (5 1/2″ true width): Top and Bottom
B: 3 @ 1 x 4 3/4″ x 22 1/2″ : Vertical Pieces (sides and center)
C: 1 @ 1 x 4 3/4″ x 16 7/8″ : Inner Shelf
D: 1 @ 1 x 2 x 34 1/2″ (1 1/2″ true width) : Top Apron Back
E: 2 @ 1 x 2 x 4 3/4″ (1 1/2″ true width) : Top Apron Sides (cut style if desired)
F: 4 @ 1 x 6 x 36″ (face boards)
G: 2 @ 1 x 2 x 22 7/8″ (23″ should be fine)
Building Steps for the primary cabinet:
- Cut pieces using the above cutting list.
- Align and fasten the 3 vertical pieces (2 sides and center). You can fasten using glue and screws, or glue and nails depending on your skill and or tools available.
- After cutting your scroll pattern on the apron side pieces, fasten them to the apron back pieces by nailing from the side. The apron end pieces are fastened using glue and screws at the end of the apron back piece.
- Take the assembled apron and glue and fasten (screws or nails) to the top shelf. Your fasteners should come up from the underside along the back and can be drilled/screwed from the top for the end pieces
- Measure and mark the height of your inside shelf. Mark the front and back on each side. We had the bottom of the shelf marked at 10″ and fastened with glue and nails from each side.
Your main cabinet is now complete and can be set aside while you work on your cabinet face / fold down shelf portion:
- Begin by laying out your 4 36″ wide boards so that they form a nice rectangle shape.
- Take your 2 “G” parts and align each so that it is 4″ in from the end and that the end of the 1 piece is flush with the bottom of your shelf/face. The other end will overlap the opposite end by 3/4″ – 1″. Fasten these pieces in place with glue and nails or screws. If you want a clean look on the face of your piece when closed, you should use a finish nail and then countersink and fill the nail hole. If you want a clean look on the face, you could also screw or nail from the back side. In either case, you should sink at least 2 fasteners along each 1 x 6 board. Since this will be exposed to the elements, I would suggest using 3 per board. If you have a brad nailer, this is the perfect time to use galvanized 1 1/4″ galvanized brads. The brads will be a bit hidden when compared to a simple finish nail that you hand set.
- After fastening your parts give it some time for the glue to set up. An hour should be plenty of time.
- Assuming your have purchased a piano hinge, secure to the cabinet face /shelf edge. This should fasten along the bottom edge where the cross pieces (G) are flush and the opening of the hinge should face away from the cross pieces (G).
- Align the cabinet face / shelf with the primary cabinet. This should be flush at each side and the long edge of the piano hinge should be lined up against the 2 sides and center support piece (B).
- Fasten in place. You might want to elevate the primary cabinet with a couple of leftover pieces of 1x material so that it is at the same level as the cabinet face. This will make it easier to align and fasten.
- With the cabinet face/shelf in the open position, fasten your side chains or cables (depending on what you purchased). Be sure that the items are taught/tight. I would close the cabinet face slightly(about 1/4″ – 1/2″) to allow for some play in the side cable/chain. This will probably require a little adjustment over time.
- Attach your side latches to the cabinet face (upper sides) and then close your cabinet face. Mark and fasten the opposite side for your cabinet latches.
There is much more detail involved with this project and we would be happy to expand on this with photos and diagrams in the near future. In the meantime, ask any questions that you might have below.
The entire design of the project (using Google Sketchup) was captured and can be seen on the WoodworkCity YouTube Channel. The video has a voice over that might help answer some questions that you have.
Flip Down Sideboard Plans
A great project that has multiple uses on a patio, or even in a small shop or laundry space.
- Hidden storage
- As needed work surface
- Dimensional Lumber
- Simple Joinery
- Limited tools needed
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